The Black Sea coast is similar to the north coast of Spain: green, lush and mountainous. It's not a coast to visit for stable sunshine or classical ruins; its charms are more subtle, found in its distinct history, cultures, landscape and a sense of remoteness.
If you're looking for something that feels far from western Turkey then Trabzon, a bustling port city at the eastern end of the Black Sea coast is not a bad start. Although difficult to describe it as an attractive city – it has an unpretentious charm. The narrow streets of the bazaar quarter near the harbour are filled with an engaging mercantile energy, it's a good place to wander and get a feel for the city's beat. The people are friendly but you'll enjoy an unexpected anonymity here not found in the rest of Turkey. The area is packed with hotels, however many of them double as brothels. Hotel Anil (00 90 3267782) is a clean, unremarkable place but at least it's run as a hotel. You can get a double with breakfast for TL60 (£26).
When you need to escape the busy centre you can find tranquillity, good views and beautiful frescos at the Byzantine Aya Sofya museum in the west of the city (9am-6pm Tuesday to Sunday, Apr-Oct, TL10/£4.40). The church is small but its frescos and mosaics are remarkably well preserved and worth seeing.
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