Van is the republic's largest lake. More than a mile above sea-level, with dark waters surrounded by starkly beautiful steppe, it is no idle claim that it's the closest Turkey has to Lake Titicaca in the South American Andes. Arriving from the arid country around it, you feel a sense of wonder at the green pastures on its shores. It's a place of stunning natural beauty. That's why the church of Akdamar Kilisesi was built here.
This 10th-century Armenian church, adorned with remarkable carvings depicting biblical stories, sits on an island two miles from shore. To reach it, take a minibus between Van and Tatvan and get off at Akdamar harbour – from where boats head for the island (TL5/£2.20 return) when full. The views of the rust-coloured church against shimmering indigo water and snow-capped mountains are wonderful.
To spend more time on the water, take the ferry that sails daily between Tatvan and Van (four hours; TL5/£2.20).
The city of Van sits on the eastern side of the lake, only two hours from the Iranian border. A couple of miles out of town are the rather shabby ruins of Van castle – the rest were destroyed during the First World War and the Turkish war of independence. The castle itself is a bit of a disappointment but there are good views and it's free. The undulating grass mounds that surround it are all that is left of old Van. Although not much to look at, the new city is a likeable place, with an unexpected liberalism and some of the friendliest people in the whole of Turkey. Besides, who can't like a city that bases its civic pride on having the best breakfasts in Turkey, and has statues of its cats and the improbable Lake Van monster?
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