Inland shores: Turkey's Lake Titicaca

Van is the republic's largest lake. More than a mile above sea-level, with dark waters surrounded by starkly beautiful steppe, it is no idle claim that it's the closest Turkey has to Lake Titicaca in the South American Andes. Arriving from the arid country around it, you feel a sense of wonder at the green pastures on its shores. It's a place of stunning natural beauty. That's why the church of Akdamar Kilisesi was built here.

This 10th-century Armenian church, adorned with remarkable carvings depicting biblical stories, sits on an island two miles from shore. To reach it, take a minibus between Van and Tatvan and get off at Akdamar harbour – from where boats head for the island (TL5/£2.20 return) when full. The views of the rust-coloured church against shimmering indigo water and snow-capped mountains are wonderful.

To spend more time on the water, take the ferry that sails daily between Tatvan and Van (four hours; TL5/£2.20).

The city of Van sits on the eastern side of the lake, only two hours from the Iranian border. A couple of miles out of town are the rather shabby ruins of Van castle – the rest were destroyed during the First World War and the Turkish war of independence. The castle itself is a bit of a disappointment but there are good views and it's free. The undulating grass mounds that surround it are all that is left of old Van. Although not much to look at, the new city is a likeable place, with an unexpected liberalism and some of the friendliest people in the whole of Turkey. Besides, who can't like a city that bases its civic pride on having the best breakfasts in Turkey, and has statues of its cats and the improbable Lake Van monster?

Where can I find out more?

The Turkish Tourist office (020-7839 7778; www.gototurkey.co.uk). Lonely Planet and Rough Guide both produce guides to Turkey. The US publisher Nisanyan has several books on Turkey including The Little Hotel Book 2005, available to order from www.nisanyan.net. Alternatively, The Western Shores of Turkey by John Freely is published by Tauris Parke.

Getting around

For inter-city transport, Turkey's bus network is extensive, modern, relatively safe and good value. Tickets can usually be bought on the day at the bus station. However, for shorter journeys, minibuses (dolmuses) are the easiest way to get around.

To self-drive around the country try Holiday Autos (0870 400 0010; www.holiday autos.co.uk); Sixt (0870 156 7567; www.e-sixt.co.uk) or Avis (0870 010 0287; www. avis.co.uk), but be warned that the accident rate is high.

For longer journeys internal flights can be good value with prices starting at less than £50 to fly from one end of the country to the other. Turkish Airways has an extensive network, although compare prices with low-cost carriers Onurair (00 90 2126629797; www.onurair.com.tr) and Pegasus (00 902124440737; www.flypgs.com), which flies to Van.

How do I get there?

There are a number of scheduled options: British Airways (0844 493 0787; www.ba.com) flies from Heathrow to Istanbul and from Gatwick to Izmir and Antalya; Turkish Airlines (020-7766 9300; www.turkishairlines.com) flies from Heathrow, Stansted and Manchester to Istanbul with onward connections to Antalya, Izmir, Trabzon and Van. Cyprus Turkish Airlines (020- 7930 4851; www.kthy.net) flies direct from Stansted, Gatwick and Manchester to Antalya, Bodrum and Dalaman and easyJet (0905 821 0905; www.easyjet.com) flies from Luton to Istanbul and from Gatwick to Dalaman.

Charter flights operate from several UK airports with services to Antalya, Bodrum, Izmir and Dalaman. Try First Choice (0871 200 7799; www.firstchoice.co.uk); XL Airways (0871 911 4220; www.xl.com) or Thomas Cook (0870 750 5711; www.thomascook.com)

Something a little more different ?

The Black Sea coast is similar to the north coast of Spain: green, lush and mountainous. It's not a coast to visit for stable sunshine or classical ruins; its charms are more subtle, found in its distinct history, cultures, landscape and a sense of remoteness.

If you're looking for something that feels far from western Turkey then Trabzon, a bustling port city at the eastern end of the Black Sea coast is not a bad start. Although difficult to describe it as an attractive city – it has an unpretentious charm. The narrow streets of the bazaar quarter near the harbour are filled with an engaging mercantile energy, it's a good place to wander and get a feel for the city's beat. The people are friendly but you'll enjoy an unexpected anonymity here not found in the rest of Turkey. The area is packed with hotels, however many of them double as brothels. Hotel Anil (00 90 3267782) is a clean, unremarkable place but at least it's run as a hotel. You can get a double with breakfast for TL60 (£26).

When you need to escape the busy centre you can find tranquillity, good views and beautiful frescos at the Byzantine Aya Sofya museum in the west of the city (9am-6pm Tuesday to Sunday, Apr-Oct, TL10/£4.40). The church is small but its frescos and mosaics are remarkably well preserved and worth seeing.

Some city life?

While Izmir and Antalya have their own charms, nowhere comes close to the wonders of Istanbul – a city that has an intimate relationship with water. "Istanbul draws its strength from the Bosphorus," writes Turkey's Nobel Laureate Orhan Pamuk. This mighty channel, 20 miles long, is one of the world's great crossroads: broad enough for ships to navigate, narrow enough for bridges to cross.

To appreciate fully its shores, hop on a public ferry at Eminonu and buy a return ticket for TL17.50 (£7.70) to Anadolu Kavagi, a seaside town near the Black Sea. The journey takes 90 minutes each-way and zigzags between Europe and Asia. As Pamuk observes: "To be travelling through the middle of a city as great, historic and forlorn as Istanbul and yet to feel the freedom of the open sea – that is the thrill of a trip along the Bosphorus." It demands a second outing – this time take the commuter ferry from Eminonu to Kadikoy. Board a ferry to coincide with sunset and you'll see the Sultanahmet peninsula with its minarets silhouetted against pomegranate skies. At TL1.40 (60p) it's one of the world's great bargains; can there possibly be a better commute?

A good base?

A great town within striking distance of all the above is Kas, halfway between Antalya and Fethiye. It is one of those places where tourism and local-life have forged a happy marriage. It's a pretty town set around a harbour; its white-washed streets are filled with bougainvillea and jasmine and the whole place is overlooked by mountains. The "big pebble beach" at the eastern end of the town is true to its name and the water is clean. The Medusa Hotel (00 90 242 8361 440; www.medusahotels.com) has great views, a pool and a good location. Doubles start at TL90 (£40) for bed and breakfast.

Kas is also the place for adventure activities: the Lycian Way passes through; there is the sea-kayaking at Kekova, but also canyoning, mountain biking, paragliding and scuba diving can all be arranged.